Heritage

The guerrab: round hat and leather water flask

The guerrab: round hat and leather water flask

Upon arriving at Jemaa el Fna square near the Koutoubia, one cannot help but notice from afar the figure in gleaming red ringing a small bell: the guerrabas are truly conspicuous. This iconic character from Moroccan popular culture not only carries water but also a poignant history of a noble trade that has withstood the surrounding modernity. Photo: Cezary Morga

The guerrab sports a straw hat adorned with pompoms of every color and carries across his shoulder a goat skin flask and a bag decorated with old coins. With a smile on his face and in distinctive attire, these men, their faces marked by time, roam the square offering a glass of water for a few dirhams.

This quintessentially Moroccan profession dates back many years: "Before the advent of running water, the guerrab carried water from the well to local homes, but the introduction of piped water changed Moroccan habits. Nowadays, the guerrab quenches the thirst of passersby and offers them a few blessings," explains Omar Zengaoui, a guerrab at Jemaa el Fna square since 1980.

About his attire, the secretary of the association of guerrabas puts forth his own version: "The origin of the guerrab's garb is a true mystery. However, the 26 guerrabas of Marrakech liken the brilliant color of their outfit to the phrase: red city.".

A disappearing profession?

It's 3pm, Omar is already at the square and stands out starkly! Asked about the profitability of his profession, this 60-year-old from Marrakech responds: "I didn't inherit this profession but chose it because I find it respectable and it meets my family's needs. I don't have a salary; I make a living based on people's generosity, the baraka!".

In the past, the men in red would jingle their nakous (bell) in the markets and souks of the city to attract thirsty merchants. Since then, plastic bottles have emerged, gradually diminishing these moments when one stopped a guerrab for a refreshment, "The arrival of bottled mineral water was a real blow for us; our daily earnings plummeted, and we had to find another way to make a living," shares Omar.

Today, these distributors of water and joie de vivre brighten the souvenir photos of tourists with their vibrant colors and smiles, and they even get requests from celebrities: "Several celebrities passing through the square ask if they can take a photo with us, reversing the roles for a moment!" adds Omar with a chuckle.

Published: Nov 13, 2024

Read also