After showcasing these works at the Petit Palais in Paris, Pierre Bergé decided to demonstrate to Moroccans the influence their country had on Yves Saint Laurent.
The pieces are displayed in the former Islamic Art Museum, now the Berber Art Museum, which after this event will contain a permanent exhibition on the same subject. For the occasion, the event's designer, architect Christophe Martin, has redecorated to suit the theme of the exhibition.
Passion and inspiration
At the entrance, in the first room, there is a single piece, a red cape with bougainvillea embroidery made by embroiderer François Lesage on a jade green silk dress designed in 1989. It is accompanied by a few pages from the book A Moroccan Passion which details the life of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in Morocco, annotated by the latter.
In the second room, arranged 'in Moroccan style', the artworks displayed reflect the inspiration felt by Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. Twelve pieces produced between 1969 and 1991 interpret traditional Moroccan outfits made from typical materials such as gold thread, silk, leather, and wool.
The dreamed Africa
Moving on, one finds themselves in a starry room with a sand-colored floor, transporting visitors into the African desert, where Yves Saint Laurent drew inspiration for one of his 1967 collections, representing the African woman. The seven pieces displayed showcase the original work he did at that time by presenting outfits made from natural materials such as stone and wood embroidery or plastic accessories, which was a shock in the 1960s.
In the last room, the public walks among mannequins. It's noticeable how colors influence the pieces displayed, a mix of hues and materials that result in vibrant outfits, complemented by Moroccan accessories. An excerpt from a film made by Jérôme de Missolz in 1994 shows Yves Saint Laurent describing how he began to create in color thanks to Morocco and Marrakech. The film also features the designer's favorite model, Katoucha, in the Oasis villa.
The visit concludes with a jewel designed in 1962 - the brooch that was Yves Saint Laurent's lucky charm, which he had one of his models wear at every show.
Yves Saint Laurent and Morocco is a one-of-a-kind exhibition, offering us a chance to contemplate the exceptional works of a creator who has marked the history of fashion.
Fati Medaoui